Frequently Asked Questions

WHY SHOULD YOUR FIRST HELICOPTER BE A SINGLE PLACE?

Having been around since the very beginning of the sport helicopter movement, I have had the opportunity to evaluate numerous successes and failures with this equipment.

During the 23 years I managed Rotorway, we sold between 2,500 & 2,800 ships and trained about 1200 pilots at our “Sky Center.” I was fortunate to be personally involved with scores of these customers. Every instructor knows that the real thrill in doing something well is in sharing it with someone else and this has been my Personal pleasure as well.

I could easily write a book filled with examples of the experiences of past customers, but we don’t have space within this answer. I’ll confine my comments to some very basic observations, and then conclude with 3 solid reasons why your first helicopter must be a single place machine.

  1. An individual who purchases a kit helicopter and fails to have the kind of experience that he visualized, will be lost to this market forever. You’re 99.9% certain to have one shot at success in this area. Get all the facts that you can up front.

  1. Very few potential purchasers have the correct vision of what the kit helicopter is or isn’t and what it’s capabilities are. They view all helicopters alike, with little thought given to the huge differences between a certified Jet Ranger and their choice of a kit helicopter. They mistakenly expect equal capability and performance to be the helicopter norm.

  1. The majority of kit helicopter customers have no previous helicopter instruction. In their mind, they visualize themselves and their wife, or a buddy out flying over the countryside and having a ball. They do not understand helicopter complexity or cost and a two place machine is their only logical thought.

  1. Good looks are and have always been the number one reason for kit helicopter purchase. Unfortunately, good looks have almost nothing to do with performance, reliability or longevity. I spent the first 10 years of my helicopter design and flight test career learning how to build a good looking, flight worthy machine. I then spent the next 25 learning how to make the helicopter last.

There are three major important reasons why your first Helicopter should be a single place.

It will take 200 or more hours logged to become a truly proficient helicopter pilot. During the first 50-100 hours the new student becomes more and more familiar with the machine. Instead of wondering whether he’s in control of the machine, or whether the machine is in control of him, he begins to feel like he has finally become the master of this beast.

After 50-75 hours this tremendous feeling of mastery turns into a hint of cockiness. The student starts trying maneuvers that are further and further out, sooner or later the machine bites back. Usually, most early flight errors are minor. In any case, this period is no time for the student to be carrying passengers.

After 150-200 hours the student begins to come of age, he’s learning his limitations and the limitations of his machine. He’s becoming a much more experienced and safer pilot. We should point out that commercial operators require 1000-1500 hours of experience for new hires. It takes a lot of hours to prove that you’re insurable.

​You may not have realized it before, but all helicopters have a cost to gross weight ratio. The ratio is greater in the commercial field, but in the kit market it’s still over 2 to 1. The HELICYCLE© is the best example since it’s the lowest priced quality single place. The top two, 2-place kit helicopters are both 2.3 times it’s price. The point is, why pay twice as much to gain the experience you need when you’re statistically 70% certain to be moving on to a new hobby or venture in the next 3 or 4 years. If you’re one of the 30% still involved, sell your HELICYCLE and buy a 2 seater. Past kit helicopters have had a poor resale value, just check the classifieds. The HELICYCLES© longevity is several times that of previous kits and should have a much better resale value than past equipment.

The overriding reason for your first helicopter being a single place is safety, both your safety and the safety of your passenger. I shudder to remember the times I watched legal but inexperienced pilots take off with a friend in one of my past designs, I don’t plan to relive those scenarios this time around. Consider these facts:

  • The 2nd person is a 100% load increase not counting fuel and the helicopter feels like it’s stuck in cement, pilot reactions must be quick as lightening in an emergency.

 

  • Fully loaded aircraft require much higher power settings. In a helicopter, loss of power at the higher power settings requires serious pilot finesse to insure a happy outcome. There is no substitute for experience.

 

  • Highly loaded components need careful monitoring. The pilot must have time to get to know his machine. There’s going to be lots of mechanical stuff to learn and this is no time to have the added distraction of a passenger.

We know most newcomers think two-place and as the old saying goes, “the customer is always right.” This is true for tennis shoes and TV’s, but when it comes to aircraft, critical thinking can save your life.

B.J.

How long will it take to build the Helicycle?

The fast-build kit can be completed in as little as 200-300 hours.  The standard kit will require between 400-600 hours.

Do I need a helicopter rating?

The Helicycle is a fully functional helicopter that is regulated under Federal Aviation regulations. A helicopter rating is required.

Tools Needed to Build the Helicycle

Airframe

  1. Hand grinder with 4” cutting wheel – 1/16’ thick cut off disk (Makita or Hitachi are good brands)
  2. Drill Index (115-piece drill set): numbered drills, lettered drills, and fractional drills plus will need a couple extra 3/16, .25, and 5/16 bits  (Travers Tool Co. recommended, but they’re expensive)
  3. Reamer (1/4”), and straight flutes – .250, 3/16, and 5/16
  4. Center Punch
  5. Scribe
  6. Ball Peen hammer (light, not heavy)
  7. Clamps (vice grip type with big jaws) large and small ones
  8. 2” and 4” C-clamps (some of each)
  9. Hand clamps
  10. Air grinder – hand held (will need air compressor)
    • Carbide bur tools: ball end & pointed end
    • Rubber type tool to attach sanding disk
    • Round rubber barrel shaped tool for sandpaper that slips over (drum)
  11. 1” wide belt sander (table type with what looks like 1” x 30” sanding belt)
  12. Bench grinder with wheels – ½ HP

Cabin

  1. Floor model drill press
  2. Saber saw (power tool) with fine tooth blade
  3. Cleco pliers
  4. 1/8” clecos, about 24 (can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce)
  5. Cut-off wheel attachment for die grinder (air)
  6. Drum sander attachment for die grinder
  7. 50-60 grit drums (will need about 6)
  8. Cordless screwdriver (recommended)
    • Pop rivet gun
  9. 12” disc sander (table type), could use 10” (recommends Sears model)
    • 60 grit disk
  10. Left and right aircraft shears (recommends Wiss, sold by Aircraft Spruce)            

Controls & Fuel System

  1. 1/8″ and 1/4″ Rat tail files.
  2. Mill File – Smooth.
  3. 1/4″ Reamer.
  4. 1/16″, 3/16″ and 1/4″ high speed drill bits. You might buy 6 of the 1/16 ” bit.

Main Transmission

  1. Safety wire pliers.
  2. Spool of .032 Safety wire
  3. Automotive feeler gauge.
  4. Simple hardware store combination Protractor Level.
  5. Red Scotchbrite.
  6. 5 minute epoxy
  7. Teflon thread tape.
  8. Small tube of Anti-Seize compound.
  9. Locktite #242 – Service removable thread locker.

Tail Rotor

  1. 4 ” grinder with cutoff wheel.
  2. Saber Saw with metal cutting blades or metal cutting bandsaw.
  3. Safety wire.
  4. Protractor Level.
  5. 3/16 Rat tail file..
  6. High Speed drill bits Asst. sizes plus 1 letter D drill.

Main Rotor

Bonding Doublers

  1. Metal Cutting Shears
  2. Pneumatic Die Grinder
  3. Flap Wheels 60 -80 Grit
  4. Duck Bill Pliers
  5. 6″-12″ Disc Sander
  6. Spring Clamps
    1. 8 each of 2″
    2. 4each of 3″
  7. 2 Each 4 inch “C” Clamps
  8. 3/8 Electric Drill Motor
  9. 1/4″ Drill Bit 10 Scotch Brite Pad Part Number 54-104-029(Travers Tool)
  10. Saber Saw
  11. Acetone
  12. Wax
  13. A two tablespoon scoop
  14. A one tablespoon scoop
  15. Putty Knife.

Assembly Details

  1. 220,320 & 400 WET & Dry Sandpaper
  2. 3/8 Electric Drill Motor
  3. Drill Bit’s #51, #32, #8, #16, 1/8, 3/16 & 1/4
  4. Dynaglaze Bleeding Putty & Cream Hardner
  5. Mill File
  6. Putty Knife
  7. Sanding Block
  8. Hack Saw
  9. Thin Plastic Spreader
  10. 82° Countersink Part Number 07-041-032 (Travers Tool)
  11. Scotch Brite Pad
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